My winter 2006-2007 seed starting method
I have placed lists of what I have successfully pollinated during the summer of 2006 (ordered by seed parent and by pollen parent) on my web page. The list of what has germinated so far during the winter of 2006-2007 is also available.
This year I am germinating my seeds in two 1.7 cubic feet refrigerators of the "thermoelectric" type. [I have one Avanti model EC15W-2 (purchased at K-Mart, see http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_10104_9990000031676411P?vName=Appliances&cName=Refrigerators&sName=Compact+Refrigerators for a description) and one Galaxy model 183.91772 (purchased at Sears, the Sears one is supposedly a new model that is not listed on their web site). The 2 are very similar. The Sears model appears to be made by the same company as the Avanti. The Sears appears to have a slightly improved design compared to the Avanti]. The two "must have" features that I recommend are an internal fan and a thermostat.
The question: "When in the winter to start processing your seeds?" can only be answered by a "trial and error educated guess" (of course heavily influenced by your local climate). This year I started on Tuesday March 10 (about a month earlier than last year).
After removing the seeds from the hips, the seeds were soaked for 2 days in a saturated Bromelain/distilled water solution. This step is to soften the seed coat.. After the soak, the seeds were placed on top of ordinary children's play sand in 100 mm diameter X 20 mm deep clear plastic Petri dishes in the above two refrigerators. The inside of the refrigerators were lined with sheet aluminum to which strips of red LEDS are attached (the sheets of aluminum should help keep the temperature relatively uniform throughout the refrigerator. They should also help reflect the red light). The refrigerators are located in my attached but unheated garage. In cold weather the refrigerators are turned off, but the heat from the LEDS has kept the temperatures in the refrigerators in the middle upper 50s-lower 60s (Fahrenheit). In warmer weather, the refrigerators are turned on ( I set the thermostats at their highest (warmest) temperature settings).
The sand was wetted with a saturated Bromelain/distilled water solution (Using the Bromelain in water solution is based on an experiment that I did using 50 seeds which showed an increase in germination when the sand contained this type of solution, see the enclosed link.). I also added 50 ppm of water soluble Gibberelic acid added to the wetting solution (The Gibberelic acid is a new experiment.). The water soluble Gibberellic acid was purchased from Super-Grow http://www.super-grow.biz/Products.jsp One very convenient aspect of their product is that they provide a small "scoop" and tables of how many scoops to use for different concentrations.
Each day or two I checked the Petri dishes for germinations, and for excess or not enough moisture (excess moisture is handled by adding a little dry sand, too dry is handled by adding a little of a solution made up of 5 ml 3 % drugstore type hydrogen peroxide to every 95 ml of distilled water).
The germinated seeds were placed in undiluted 3 % drugstore type hydrogen peroxide for a short dip (a short dip is the time needed to record the germination and prepare the label). The germinated seed was then planted in "Large Plug Trays" (Item # 8622) obtained from "Charley's Greenhouse and Garden" . To slow down the rate of water evaporation, I cut out the tops of clear plastic "humidity domes" (that I no longer use for their original purpose). This modified "dome" is placed on the seedling tray and then the "large Plug Tray" is inserted in the cut out area. I fill each "plug" with Pro-Mix for potting and seedling. The germinated seed is placed on the surface of the Pro-Mix (with root downward). I then add play sand to cover the surface. I use a water mixture prepared by adding 5 ml of 3% H2O2 to every 95 ml of distilled water to water the Pro-Mix (including the initial watering). After the seedlings have formed their first true leaves, I no longer water with the hydrogen peroxide mixture but instead for the next watering use a mixture prepared by adding 1 tablespoon of fish oil to every gallon of distilled water (the mixture is added directly to the bottom holding tray so that it reaches the seedlings as a slow bottom soak). For the next watering I use a distilled water / mycorrhizal fungi mixture.
The trays are put into "4-Tier portable Grow Houses" either inside the sunroom at the sun facing windows or outside against the south back walls of my house (these face the sun for a good part of the day). These plastic "tents" slow down the rate of evaporation and (so far) have prevented "critters" from eating the young seedlings.
In the sunroom I place a commercial 6 foot heating cable with an above 70 degree turn OFF thermostat on the lowest shelf of each "portable Grow House" (I do not place any seedling tray on this lowest shelf). If temperatures below freezing are predicted, all of the outside trays are temporarily placed in these "heated" indoor "portable Grow Houses".